Fix typos in Readme.md
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Readme.md
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Readme.md
@@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ This is meant to provide a minimal starting point for further development with t
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| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | |
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| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | |
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| Wires | Several | Thin wires for connections | |
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| Wires | Several | Thin wires for connections | |
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| Enclosure | 1 | 3D-printed case | 3D printable STL files are in `hardware/case/` |
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| Enclosure | 1 | 3D-printed case | 3D printable STL files are in `hardware/case/` |
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| 2x6mm screw | 8 | Small screws for seembling the case | Does not have to be exactly 6mm long |
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| 2x6mm screw | 8 | Small screws for assembling the case | Does not have to be exactly 6mm long |
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| 2x2mm screw | 4 | Small screws for the front | Mostly for cosmetic purposes |
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| 2x2mm screw | 4 | Small screws for the front | Mostly for cosmetic purposes |
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@@ -86,8 +86,11 @@ This is meant to provide a minimal starting point for further development with t
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---
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---
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## Assembly Instructions
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## Assembly Instructions
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---
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1. **Body**
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Push the ESP8266 microcontroller in the ledge on the bottom [the cube body](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Body_3_button.stl), it should 'click in' with the USB-C port facing the hole.
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1. Push the ESP8266 microcontroller in the ledge on the bottom [the cube body](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Body_3_button.stl) it sould 'click in' with the USB-C port facing the hole.
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Body with 3 or 4 button slots is available in the `hardware/case/`
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Body with 3 or 4 button slots is available in the `hardware/case/`
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@@ -96,11 +99,15 @@ Body with 3 or 4 button slots is available in the `hardware/case/`
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2. **Buttons**: You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them.
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---
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2. **Buttons**
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You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them.
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Solder all of the button outputs to the microcontroller:
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Solder all of the button outputs to the microcontroller:
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Pin numbers for buttons and other stuff is defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) and the schematic for the [D1 Mini is here](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/schematics/esp8266.png):
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Pin numbers for buttons and other stuff is defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) and the schematic for the [D1 Mini is here](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/schematics/esp8266.png):
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You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest way to assemble and fit everything in. 3 Button variant is the standard. If you are gonna go with the 4 button variant you will need to define this yourself.
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You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest way to assemble and fit everything in. 3 Button variant is the standard. If you are gonna go with the 4 button variant you will need to define this yourself.
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@@ -112,13 +119,16 @@ You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest w
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3. **OLED Display**: Crew in the 2x2mm screws and glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra lenght, 4-5cm sould be more than enough
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3. **OLED Display**
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Screw in the 2x2mm screws and hot glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra length, 4-5cm should be more than enough
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The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins:
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The OLED display must be connected via I2C on pins:
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- **SDA**: D2 (GPIO4)
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- **SDA**: D2 (GPIO4)
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- **SCL**: D1 (GPIO5)
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- **SCL**: D1 (GPIO5)
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- **GND**: GND
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- **GND**: GND
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@@ -126,15 +136,24 @@ The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins:
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4. **Buzzer**: Glue in the buzzer to the [back part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Back_Speaker_Side_Hole.stl)
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4. **Buzzer**
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Glue in the buzzer to the [back part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Back_Speaker_Side_Hole.stl) with superglue
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As defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) connect:
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- the positive wire of the buzzer to the 3.3V
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- the negative wire to PIN_BUZZER (D3) GPIO0
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---
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5. **Power Supply Setup**:
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5. **Power Supply Setup**:
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- Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 700mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours.
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Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 700mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours.
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- Solder the 14250 battery to the TP4056 module input pins.
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- Solder the 14250 battery to the TP4056 module input pins.
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- Wire the output of the TP4056 to the **3.3V pin** on the D1 Mini to power the device.
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- Wire the output of the TP4056 to the **3.3V pin** on the D1 Mini to power the device.
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- Connect the **5V output pin** from the D1 Mini to the **input port** on the TP4056 module to allow charging trough the Data USB port on the ESP8266.
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- Connect the **5V output pin** from the D1 Mini to the **input port** on the TP4056 module to allow charging through the Data USB port on the ESP8266.
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@@ -148,10 +167,11 @@ The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins:
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- This is still a work in progress
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- This is still a work in progress
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- Everything is pretty tightly packed in there and it's a mess. But it's not as hard to make as it looks.
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- Everything is pretty tightly packed in there and it's a mess. But it's not as hard to make as it looks.
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- Ensure all connections are secure. Hot glue is your friend.
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- Ensure all connections are secure and isolated. Hot glue is your friend.
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- Test the circuit thoroughly before placing and glueing it in the enclosure.
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- Test the circuit thoroughly before placing and gluing it in the enclosure.
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- Battery is the trickiest part to fit in, it's best to glue the charging module directly to it and put it in the case last
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- Battery is the trickiest part to fit in, it's best to glue the charging module directly to it and put it in the case last
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For questions or additional details, feel free to reach out! I would love to hear some feedback.
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For questions or additional details, feel free to reach out! I would love to hear some feedback.
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