diff --git a/Readme.md b/Readme.md index 6c5bdb9..137d12f 100644 --- a/Readme.md +++ b/Readme.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ **SmartCube** is a tiny and customizable desk toy using the ESP8266 D1 Mini. Built entirely from cheap, easy-to-find parts, it can connect to Wi-Fi and can be programmed to do just about anything: -show notifications, display the weather, monitor stuff, show a clock, serve a web site, be a virtual pet or whatever else your caffeine-fueled brain can imagine. +show notifications, display the weather, monitor stuff, show a clock, serve a web site, mine crypto, be a virtual pet or whatever else your caffeine-fueled brain can imagine. ![SmartCube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/cubez.jpg) @@ -75,7 +75,7 @@ This is meant to provide a minimal starting point for further development with t | TP4056 Module | 1 | Charging and protection circuit | Does not need to have a USB connector | | 6x6 Push Buttons | 3 or 4 | Tactile push buttons | | | 20mm Piezo Buzzer | 1 | Caseless buzzer for audio | | -| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | Not reqired if you are using ESP32 | +| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | | | Wires | Several | Thin wires for connections | | | Enclosure | 1 | 3D-printed case | 3D printable STL files are in `hardware/case/` | | 2x6mm screw | 8 | Small screws for seembling the case | Does not have to be exactly 6mm long | @@ -96,11 +96,11 @@ Body with 3 or 4 button slots is available in the `hardware/case/` ![Step2](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build2.jpg) -2. **Buttons**: You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them +2. **Buttons**: You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them. ![Step4](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build4.jpg) -Solder all of the buttons to the microcontroller: +Solder all of the button outputs to the microcontroller: Pin numbers for buttons and other stuff is defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) and the schematic for the [D1 Mini is here](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/schematics/esp8266.png): You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest way to assemble and fit everything in. 3 Button variant is the standard. If you are gonna go with the 4 button variant you will need to define this yourself. @@ -108,16 +108,16 @@ You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest w - Button Middle (PIN_BTN_M): (D7) GPIO13 - Button Right (PIN_BTN_R): (D8) GPIO15 + You also need to solder the GND wire to the end of the resistors and 3.3V on the button inputs. + ![Step5](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build5.jpg) - -3. **OLED Display**: Crew in or glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra lenght, 4-5cm sould be more than enough +3. **OLED Display**: Crew in the 2x2mm screws and glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra lenght, 4-5cm sould be more than enough ![Step6](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build6.jpg) ![Step7](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build7.jpg) - The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins: - **SDA**: D2 (GPIO4) - **SCL**: D1 (GPIO5) @@ -131,7 +131,7 @@ The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins: ![Step9](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/pictures/build9.jpg) 5. **Power Supply Setup**: - - Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 600mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours. + - Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 700mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours. - Solder the 14250 battery to the TP4056 module input pins. - Wire the output of the TP4056 to the **3.3V pin** on the D1 Mini to power the device. - Connect the **5V output pin** from the D1 Mini to the **input port** on the TP4056 module to allow charging trough the Data USB port on the ESP8266.