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Readme.md
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Readme.md
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**SmartCube** is a tiny and customizable desk toy using the ESP8266 D1 Mini.
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**SmartCube** is a tiny and customizable desk toy using the ESP8266 D1 Mini.
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Built entirely from cheap, easy-to-find parts, it can connect to Wi-Fi and can be programmed to do just about anything:
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Built entirely from cheap, easy-to-find parts, it can connect to Wi-Fi and can be programmed to do just about anything:
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show notifications, display the weather, monitor stuff, show a clock, serve a web site, be a virtual pet or whatever else your caffeine-fueled brain can imagine.
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show notifications, display the weather, monitor stuff, show a clock, serve a web site, mine crypto, be a virtual pet or whatever else your caffeine-fueled brain can imagine.
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| TP4056 Module | 1 | Charging and protection circuit | Does not need to have a USB connector |
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| TP4056 Module | 1 | Charging and protection circuit | Does not need to have a USB connector |
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| 6x6 Push Buttons | 3 or 4 | Tactile push buttons | |
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| 6x6 Push Buttons | 3 or 4 | Tactile push buttons | |
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| 20mm Piezo Buzzer | 1 | Caseless buzzer for audio | |
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| 20mm Piezo Buzzer | 1 | Caseless buzzer for audio | |
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| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | Not reqired if you are using ESP32 |
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| Resistors (10kΩ) | 3 or 4 | Pull-down resistors for buttons | |
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| Wires | Several | Thin wires for connections | |
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| Wires | Several | Thin wires for connections | |
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| Enclosure | 1 | 3D-printed case | 3D printable STL files are in `hardware/case/` |
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| Enclosure | 1 | 3D-printed case | 3D printable STL files are in `hardware/case/` |
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| 2x6mm screw | 8 | Small screws for seembling the case | Does not have to be exactly 6mm long |
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| 2x6mm screw | 8 | Small screws for seembling the case | Does not have to be exactly 6mm long |
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2. **Buttons**: You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them
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2. **Buttons**: You can glue in the buttons to the top slots at this step and solder the resistors to them.
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Solder all of the buttons to the microcontroller:
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Solder all of the button outputs to the microcontroller:
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Pin numbers for buttons and other stuff is defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) and the schematic for the [D1 Mini is here](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/schematics/esp8266.png):
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Pin numbers for buttons and other stuff is defined in the [example config](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/src/branch/main/src/example_config.h) and the schematic for the [D1 Mini is here](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/schematics/esp8266.png):
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You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest way to assemble and fit everything in. 3 Button variant is the standard. If you are gonna go with the 4 button variant you will need to define this yourself.
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You don't have to follow my pin definition exactly but I find this the easiest way to assemble and fit everything in. 3 Button variant is the standard. If you are gonna go with the 4 button variant you will need to define this yourself.
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- Button Middle (PIN_BTN_M): (D7) GPIO13
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- Button Middle (PIN_BTN_M): (D7) GPIO13
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- Button Right (PIN_BTN_R): (D8) GPIO15
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- Button Right (PIN_BTN_R): (D8) GPIO15
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You also need to solder the GND wire to the end of the resistors and 3.3V on the button inputs.
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3. **OLED Display**: Crew in the 2x2mm screws and glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra lenght, 4-5cm sould be more than enough
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3. **OLED Display**: Crew in or glue the SSD1306 to the [front part of the cube](https://git.kopic.hr/tomislav/SmartCubeV1/raw/branch/main/hardware/case/SmartCube_Front.stl) solder the 4 wires to the OLED display, make sure you have some extra lenght, 4-5cm sould be more than enough
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The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins:
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The OLED display must to be connected via I2C on pins:
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- **SDA**: D2 (GPIO4)
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- **SDA**: D2 (GPIO4)
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- **SCL**: D1 (GPIO5)
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- **SCL**: D1 (GPIO5)
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5. **Power Supply Setup**:
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5. **Power Supply Setup**:
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- Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 600mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours.
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- Battery is not required and you can skip this step if you want to but it is much cuter when it's portable. A single 700mAh 14250 lasts about 24 hours.
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- Solder the 14250 battery to the TP4056 module input pins.
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- Solder the 14250 battery to the TP4056 module input pins.
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- Wire the output of the TP4056 to the **3.3V pin** on the D1 Mini to power the device.
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- Wire the output of the TP4056 to the **3.3V pin** on the D1 Mini to power the device.
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- Connect the **5V output pin** from the D1 Mini to the **input port** on the TP4056 module to allow charging trough the Data USB port on the ESP8266.
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- Connect the **5V output pin** from the D1 Mini to the **input port** on the TP4056 module to allow charging trough the Data USB port on the ESP8266.
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